Choosing the correct needle size can be challenging sometimes. Here is a quick guide to help you determine the right size embroidery needle, when running your projects.
Needle sizes vary from small to large depending on what material you will be sewing on, the amount of stitches you will be running, to the thread weight you are buying. There are five different Organ needle sizes ranging from 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, and 90/14. The number on the left is the European size while the number on the right is American. The European number will represent the size of the blade. For example, 65 will mean .65mm in diameter.
The 65/9 embroidery needle size will typically be used for silk and very light weight material, since the needles are delicate. With lighter weight materials, you don’t want big holes punched into your fabric. They are also great for small lettering, ¼ inch or smaller, used with 60 weight embroidery thread.
The 70/10 needle size will be used for lighter weight garments. The 75/11 size is the most widely used universal needle. This will be your go to needle in the embroidery business. These are good for cotton, polyester, bags, and most garments you will sew on. It is an all around great needle size.
The 80/12 size will be for heavy fabric, stiff Richardson hats, light leather, and quilting. They are thicker, stronger, and more durable.
The 90/14 will be the largest needle size and used for leather, multiple fabrics, heavy canvas, belts, etc. When using such a large needle, make sure your hook timing is correctly set. This can affect how your machine will normally run.
You will also have the option of different embroidery needle materials like chrome or titanium. Chrome is the most universal and affordable type of needle, but for those tough jobs, use a titanium needle. They are stronger and will outlast the chrome.
There is also ball point and sharp needles, that focus on the shape of the actual needle points. Most jobs require the sharp needle. The only time you will use a ball point is when running knit beanies, fleece, lace, or woven fabrics. The reason for this is so you don’t slice through the fabric like you would with a sharp needle – it will cut your material and won’t have anything to hold an embroidery stitch to.
If you have any questions regarding needle sizing, please contact us here at Stitch It International and we will be happy to help you out.